Essentials of River Kayakng

The past weekend I was a participant in the annual Arkansas Canoe Club's Recreational School: Essentials of River Kayaking. One might think after having spent so much time on so many rivers that the time spent here was wasted, but that was decidedly not the case. The program is sponsored by an all volunteer club of people who are so dedicated to spending time on the river that virtually no stone was left unturned when it came to instruction.

I thought I would get a jump on the action by inflating my kayak well before it was needed.  I have gotten pretty good at pumping it up, it doesn't leave me exhausted anymore...so I can see that in two short months my strength is getting better and better.

 Actually the rec school was split into two segments: those with kayaks and those with canoes.  The instructional part was something we all listened to.  Here they were showing how one could put airbags into the bow and stern of the canoe so if it turns over, it will not take on as much water as it would otherwise.  I never knew that!

 They discussed various styles of kayaks and the purposes for each...clearly anyone who truly enjoys kayaking will find that they have three or four kayaks in short order, different styles for lakes, rivers, white water and ocean kayaking.

 It was not the boring drill type of instruction, but rather informational presentation with healthy dashes of humor and wit. The program started Friday evening at the Riverview Resort on the Spring River in Northeast Arkansas. Presentations included such things as things to wear for your protection from nasty weather and being tossed from your kayak

How to grab a lifeline that is thrown to you after you have been thrown from your kayak.  This is obviously, NOT the way to grab the line...unless you are thinking of strangling yourself.  See, it is this stuff that you need to know about well in advance of ever actually needing the information!

Saturday, we spent time on a quiet creek tributary learning how to bow paddle, back paddle, sweep paddle, draw. forward, rudder and brace paddle strokes.  Then in was on to the river!

The Spring River is peppered with ledge drop-offs, lots of them, so after a particularly challenging one we gathered on a gravel bar to watch/help the next group coming down the river.  I was pretty glad that my inflatable handled as well as it did without the rudder-fin that helps so much in lake water.

No, we did not actually have to save anyone...here we were just practicing what we learned on Friday night.  Toss the rope, have the person grab it (correctly) and bring them in to shore...it is good to do this once or twice in a non-emergency situation so you know how to respond when every second counts.

Sunday we got all our kayaks to the put in just in time for a serious cloudburst!  So we waited it out.  Twenty minutes later we were on our way for more adventure.

Here is a helmet and paddle...waiting out the storm.  Helmets are very good things to have on rivers where there are lots of rocks, boulders and the possibility of being sloshed out and into rushing water with lots of rock and ledge opportunities.

Here we had just finished a rather challenging ledge followed by a couple of "S" curves with an island in the middle that had to be avoided.  Lots of cross-currents and opportunity to overturn.  Actually, only one person was washed out of the kayak in a non threatening current.

Here is another ledge drop-off that was no problem at all if you hit the right (very small) spot; if the current brought you a little further left or right...well then you got to practice a little.

All in all it was a very fun filled learning experience.  The volunteers were very experienced, patient and there when you needed them.  The group was split into manageable groups with lots of instructors, safetys and a sweep.  No one was ever more than a moment away from help if it was needed.  Even though I have spent a bit of time on the water, I learned a lot and will take a few areas of safety consideration and get equipment to prevent serious injury on fast moving rivers that I don't currently have.

Here is a shot of only our group at the take out point, smiles all around!

But the best news is that since I am still recovering from my chemo treatment, just being able to do this was quite an accomplishment.  I have been exercising and biking a little every day trying to build my strength and being able to 'do' this weekend gives me a lot of encouragement and confidence to go on.

Ponca to Kyles Landing, Buffalo River -- Arkansas

The trip was planned for some time and as it got closer and closer I was sure that we would have to cancel it because of all the rain we've been having, but the rain Gods and Goddesses smiled on us. They gave us the only non rainy day in a string of ten or so to enjoy our outing on the Buffalo River. This particular section was new to me. Last year I paddled from Steel Creek to Buffalo City for a total of about 122 miles, but we missed this section due to low water last year, so I can now say I have paddled the full 131 miles of the Buffalo River.

We used the Lost Valley Canoe Outfitter in Ponca. The approach was a little different than usual. We drove to the put in point and they took the car and left it at Kyles Landing for us at the take out point. That makes it really easy when you are finished you can just get in the car and go. There is no waiting for a shuttle bus to bring you back to your car, pretty neat I thought.

We all opted for kayaks and I for one was surprised that Otters were as short as 6 feet; it made for a slightly more unstable float than I expected, but they are so easy to maneuver we didn't give it any more thought. The current in many places was stronger than I was used to and I found myself swamped once in deep and rushing water. I wasn't the only one to take a dunk, we all did at least once but there was no real danger. We were able to get to shore pretty quickly in most cases and we all appreciated the temperature of the water on a warm day!

Here is the group Cat, Tom and Jill enjoying the first pretty rock formation after starting our float trip

You never know where along the way you will find a pretty waterfall, this one went way back in the woods and was very pretty to look at from the river

Here is my friend Cat floating down a ripply rapid, it didn't take long for all of us to scope out the rapids and if all was well the paddle went up in a horizontal position for the others to see and enjoy their turn!

Here is Jill, she has found yet another waterfall.  The sounds were delightful!

We found our way to Kyles Landing a little later than I anticipated, but still plenty of daylight and were very happy to switch into dry clothes.  We all got in the car and headed out and that is when our perfect day began to unravel.  The road to Kyles Landing is very steep, dirt and because of all the recent rains was graded and graveled that day.   My little car was unable to negotiate the hill.  I got about halfway up and the car just stopped.  It was like driving in snow, that was absolutely no traction.  I tried backing down the hill, got a good head start and tried speeding up the hill, but still could not do it.

Stuck out there I really did not know what to do.  I had no cell signal so I could not call AAA. Others with 4 wheel drive could barely make it so it was not likely that anyone was going to give us a tow.  After about 45 minutes, the outfitter had returned after bringing the canoes and kayaks back to the office.  He had a friend with him that does mountain-climbing.  What a fortunate turn of events, he had plenty of rope (that does not stretch when tension is applied) so he threaded it three times through the two tow loops on the front of my car, and shaped it into a triangle, so the chain with a hook could be attached.  Then they and I drove up the hills.  It was pretty scary since I was only a couple of feet from the pickup truck

But it worked and in practically no time at all we were on our way for a well deserved dinner.
The very next day I read in the paper that this very road was going to be posted that 4 wheel drive vehicles only were to be allowed on it since the grading had made it so treacherous !
Those fellows from Lost Valley Canoe, sure saved my skin that day and I appreciate that they were able to help me out of that nasty predicament!

Kayaking the Lower Illinois River in Oklahoma

The weather forecast for mid eighties and no rain was all I needed to hear for me to decide to take a kayak trip down the lower Illinois River at Tahlequah, Oklahoma. It is 68 miles of crystal clear water and class 2 rapids. It has been several years since I visited this river but it was still very nice. The water temps were perfect for paddling with my feet in the water.

On this trip I noticed that there are very large fish in this river. I mean really big; at least 2 feet and several different kinds, but I am not a fish expert so I don't know which ones I saw. I looked up some propaganda on the river and found out that it is stocked every other week in July and the listed fish were: rainbow and brown trout, record stripers (those were probably the huge ones I saw!), walleye, crappie catfish and bass. I was amazed that I saw only two fishermen during my 12 mile trip!

I was using a sit on top kayak, something I have never done before. If you are on a very calm river they are fun, but I would not want on if the water were just a deeper or rougher.

The only complaint that I have is that the river banks were littered with pop bottles and the like. It was very discouraging to see that people come to enjoy the river and leave their garbage strewn all over. If I had a bag I would have picked some of it up, it was truly disgusting. Maybe I will ask the outfitters to give bags to the folks who float so they can help put it back to its pristine condition again...

here are a couple of shots I got along the way; my camera is not waterproof, so I only got a couple.

I did not get any shots of the fish, but the turtles were nothing to sneeze at either...Here are three huge ones in and among the fallen trees, click for larger views



When I got home I noticed that my sunflowers finally bloomed!

More from the Buffalo river

Well, as I reviewed the post from the river trip, I see I focused mainly on the wildlife. There is a bunch more to show from that trip so I thought I'd do another post and include some of it as well.

Like this really serene view from the front of the canoe; you ONLY get this view if you are the first of your group in the water and the weather cooperates. All in all very much worth the effort!
Here is a shot of the many, many bluffs to be seen along the river. Doesn't matter where you put in or take out..if you do any part of the river you WILL see gorgeous bluffs


The view from the front is the best, as far as I'm concerned


Here we are having lunch on the river; just an informal affair enjoyed by each in their own way.



A special breakfast hash, made by our able guide Graham.


And whatever you do...don't forget dessert!


We made it to Gilbert and got out to get some supplies. This store is very much like a general store from the turn of the century. They had pretty much everything we needed as well as Good Humor frozen eclairs! Man o Man...that was good after a few days of paddling.

Buffalo River, Arkansas Canoe Trip

Just got back in from a six day canoe trip along the beautiful Buffalo River in Arkansas. We put in at Pruitt and took out at Buffalo City, Arkansas. Altogether we paddled over 100 miles in the six days we spent on the river. This is, without a doubt, one of the best rivers in the USA. Anyone who loves paddling should seriously try and get here to enjoy it. It is brimming with wildlife and it has no private residences nor farm animals along any of its banks. Just pure nature at its best. Take a look at some of the wildlife that I managed to catch with my camera.

Here is a beautiful blue and black butterfly...the place was loaded with them. They are so tame that they land on you or very near by
This is a blue one closed up...so he appears brown, just camouflage so he blends with the rocks and forest floor better.

We must have seen over a hundred turtles this week, it is so refreshing to see so much healthy wildlife so near to home! This state is truly amazing for the variety it has.
After spotting over five eagles flying over head (one with a fish in its claws and landing in a tree across the river from where we camped) we saw this immature eagle learning to fish for himself on the last day of the trip. So calm and focused...what joy!
Then (I guess one might say this was the highlight of the trip) after beaching for the day and setting up the tent, I was returning from a potty call and found this guy slithering not more that two feet from our tent. He was so close, that I could not pick up my camera until he had passed me and continued his journey to the river...he was heading for the other side. It is a timber rattle snake and mighty healthy looking I might add! Double click the photo for a larger view.

Here is a shot from behind the tent, once I was finally able to get my camera.
This was another exciting natural occurrence. we were watching a blue heron that appeared to be fishing as we were going down the river and then he flew a few hundred yards to the other side of the river and swooped down to catch this snake..for his dinner that day. The snake did not have a chance of survival.
Here is another butterfly. He landed on my towel (that was drying out on the canoe as we paddled) they have no fear of humans; so we got many good close up looks at these guys.

There was so much wildlife that just before the end of the trip I took a poll survey and here is what I came up with:
Turtles
Heron
Green Heron
Snake (at least five different kinds)
Eagles and immature eagles
blue butterflies (very small light blue, none of those shots came out though)
black with blue butterflies
black with brown butterflies
Luna Moth (this was absolutely gorgeous..but my camera battery died..I am hoping to get a photo from a fellow paddler to post in the near future!)
fish (suckers and trout and a bunch of others I could not identify)
bats
Piliated Woodpecker
Road Runner

Rainbow River and Cedar Key Sunset

We started our day with a 5:30 AM departure from our hotel for American Pro Diving Center in Crystal River; from there we wet-suited up and took a short trip to swim with the manatees. What a wonderful experience. We snorkeled and floated above the manatees and they would rise and gently swim up to us so we could pet them on their backs and when they were really trusting of us...would roll over for us to rub their bellies as well. The fear and thrill of having one of these mammals swim directly under you by mere inches is one I will never forget.

We left the manatees and put in at the US 41 launching point of the Rainbow River for a 2.5 hour paddle up and down the river. We saw plenty of wildlife along the river including a nesting pair of sandhill cranes, a red-shouldered hawk and other nesting birds that we could not identify.

We ended the day by watching the sunset in the community of Cedar Key, Florida. There is a cement 8-pier fishing structure from which one can comfortably view the sunset. There are resident pelicans which add to the enjoyment. All in all a perfect day.



Some interesting buildings along the Rainbow River



Lunch on the river...

Green River, Utah - 9 Day Canoe Trip

Here we are starting out from Crystal Geyser, our put in point. I took this one by just holding the camera up facing us and hoping for the best. The weather was partly cloudy, which helped to keep the temperatures more agreeable than it might have been otherwise. Lots of sunscreen and body lotion is needed for a trip like this...there is virtually no humidity, so your skin dries very quickly. To see anything better, just double click the picture to get a much larger view.
Here is the front end of our canoe a some point during the trip. Everyone takes 5 to 10 gallons of water and some of the food supplies. We were lucky..we got breakfast and snack bins. We were never wanting for anything to eat on this trip.

Here is some of the group, from left to right: Mike, Lou, John, Greg, Sammy, and Chuck

We hiked up to the top of several buttes along the way. Here is a view looking down at the river and some of the glorious canyon and red rock formations.


Here we are at Registry Rock, a short but steep hike up the canyon. Look at the rocks in the background...many have left their marks. (we did not)
Another beautiful look at the river and a still morning. I just love the reflection of the canyon walls on the still river water on a beautiful day. It doesn't get better than this!

Our leader fixing breakfast...well into the trip.

Here is an old homestead ranch cabin that was built in the late 1800's. We hiked up to this and further on to a much higher butte before we continued our paddle.

Here is Lou...one of our group-mates having fun with a foot mud bath!


Chuck and Greg are hiking in different directions on Jasper Canyon. We found Anasazi Ruins in fantastic condition here. The hike was very short and well worth the effort!
Our tent at one of our campsites...

Here is the the ruin...


Here it is again with Chuck in the foreground
Alas...all good things come to an end. The boys were doing the Canoe Conga as we were packing it all up for our jet boat ride back to Moab, Utah. From left to right: Mike, Fred and Chuck.

Greg's two sons could find fun in just about anything. Here is the younger one, 'Gator "packing up" his brother Sam for the return to Moab. (just for the moment, Sam did NOT travel in the plastic crate!)

Once on board the Jet Boat, the beers were handed out. I never had Irish stout, but this went down real easy!

On the way up the river we passed groups of loaded rafts heading for Cataract Canyon and loads of white water rafting. Everyone seemed ready for a good time!

The take-out point was Potash, Utah boat ramp. We finished the return trip in a bus; they just drove the jet boat up on the truck ramp (fully loaded) and drove it back to the outfitters place.